Friday, January 27, 2012

Of Drought and Flooding Rains (Bourke, Australia)


For several decades, Bourke (and most towns far around) have been protected from flooding waters by giant levee banks. Like comforting blankets, these raised banks track the river through Bourke and sweep around its outskirts. Life-giving flood waters revitalise parched soils and rivers, slowly creep down across the flat lands from the north but no longer inundate the town centres. The waters ixexorably and unyieldingly sweep south at only 100 to 150 kilometres in a week with the floods arrival being able to be predicted weeks in advance, often to a few hours of accuracy.

Long term residents speak in hushed but relaxed tones about times of floods and river heights. Sipping at a beer one steamy December evening, Steve spoke to me confidently in early December "It shouldn't reach more than 11.5 metres and probably will get to us just after Christmas". (The flood map to the left showing day/month of peak flood point in each town is from 2010-2011 to give an idea of the slow meandering nature of the flood waters.) There was no cause for panic in the knowledge of the importance of the flood waters goodness despite a likely few days or weeks of isolation from cut roads.

For most of the past decade, there was no talk of floods for most of Australia was in drought. The parched red-soil plains ran bare to the far horizon only sprinkled with warrior gum trees and rugged green saltbush scrub - crops and livestock impossible to maintain, the cotton gins idle, the fruit-pickers eerily silent, the endless crooked fencelines guarding empty lands. The stories of drought are much harsher, the hardship of no rain more palpable, the stoic nature of the people tested to extreme, the pall of near despair apparent in rural towns all around.

Yet even the first few sprinkles of rain springs life into the thirsty soils, verdant new growth thrusting from the ochre grounds, life and vigour returns to the population.

Famed Australian poet Henry Lawson said "to know Bourke is to know Australia". This iconic Australian outback town is a barometer of Aussie life and a journey that both residents and visitors to Australia should make.

Photo Credits: flood, map, drought

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Photo of the Week: Red-Tailed Cockatoos in Silhouette (Bourke, Australia)

A favourite photo (click on it to enlarge), mildly in the style of moving picture pioneer Eadweard Muybridge, showing three magnificent red-tailed cockatoos each in different aspects of their flight. The explosion of scarlet tucked under their tail can be seen on the front bird and a superb sight when viewing a flock from below.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Must Visit Sights of Edinburgh (Scotland)


guest post by Euro Bookings

There’s nothing worse than arriving in an exciting new city when time’s at a premium and not knowing which places of interest are worth visiting and which are well worth steering clear of. With that in mind, here’s a brief guide to Edinburgh’s best sites and it’s also worth noting that hotels in Edinburgh are in a plentiful supply.

Edinburgh Castle

Perched above the city centre is Edinburgh Castle, arguably the most iconic attraction in the Scottish capital. Go on the free tour and learn more about the historical significance of Edinburgh Castle from one of the experienced guides and witness the one o’clock gun salute, which has taken place nearly every day since as far back as 1861.

National Galleries of Scotland

There are several free museums in Edinburgh that are well worth taking in, one of which is the National Galleries of Scotland. Spread over three sites across the city, the National Galleries of Scotland has thousands of pieces of Scottish and international art to check out and a fascinating sculpture exhibition currently runs until June that’s definitely worth going to see.

National Museum of Scotland

The National Museum of Scotland is another free museum that can keep people of all ages entertained for a few hours. Gallery subjects range from art and design to world cultures. There are detailed displays related to Scottish history inlcuding Celtic treasures and battles with England. There are also typically special one-off exhibitions to explore.

Scott Monument

Located in the valley beneath Edinburgh Castle, Scott Monument offers a great view of the city if you can muster the energy to climb to the top of the 287 steps to reach the top. The huge structure was built as a tribute to Sir Walter Scott, a famous Scottish writer who was born in the city in the 1700s.

The Royal Mile

Edinburgh’s Old Town is a fascinating place and within the labyrinth of streets that makes it up is The Royal Mile. Running between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyrood pubs, restaurants and interesting shops line The Royal Mile, which is a charming area of the city that brings together the old and new to brilliant effect. It’s also the perfect spot to treat yourself to a few local delicacies or sample a whisky.

Photo Credits: Edinburgh Castle, National Museum, Royal Mile

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Historic Court House: 100 Years of Change? (Bourke, Australia)

Bourke has a most distinct and unusual courthouse, one of a number of historic buildings. Built in a colonial style surrounding a small garden area for cooling and for legal folks to commune and contemplate, remarkably little has changed since its construction in 1899 (for the princely sum of 9,500 pounds) as the archival photos show. As Australia's only inland maritime court (the crown on the spire indicates this - click on the photo to see it enlarged), it has heard some significant cases over the years and continues to mete justice out today.

Isn't it striking how the archival photos show uncluttered streetscapes - no mobile phone towers, no electricity poles, no street signage. All those elements of modern life!!

The garden has a little less style now and it is certainly due a good mow.









Historic photos courtesy of State Archives NSW

Monday, January 16, 2012

Historic Buildings (Bourke, Australia)

Now the Gidgee Guesthouse, the London Bank building was constructed in Bourke in 1888, still retaining its sense of grandeur and opulence of Bourke's golden period as a major inland port. Today the guesthouse has an eclectic feel with their rooms leading to a garden courtyard filled with native plants and various knick-knacks.

Around the corner, the equally fine Lands Building (built in 1899) shows the creativity of early architects with air flowing under the building over rainwater cisterns and up through the wall cavities to create a natural air conditioning throughout the building (similar in idea to India's Amber Fort). Today regular air-conditioners have replaced this ingenious method that kept workers comfortable for nearly a century.

 
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