Touring the Mosaic City (Ravenna, Italy) - Part Two

Check out the first half of the tour of Ravenna before continuing here.

A few blocks away are Ravenna’s oldest mosaics. The octagonal Neonian Bapistery is supposedly a converted Roman bathhouse and contains further superb mosaics including Christ’s baptism ringed by his twelve apostles in the centre of the huge dome. You can get close to some of the mosaics giving a greater insight into the adept work of the artisans. A huge baptismal font big enough to swim in sits to one side.

Across the road is a small museum with further mosaics, a giant intricately carved marble throne and a striking but indecipherable sixth century carved marble Easter calendar.








To get a break from mosaics for a while, the tomb of the famous Italian poet Dante (who wrote Italy’s finest work called The Divine Comedy), exiled from Florence, lies a block east of the baptistery. Despite the stunning mosaics, this is Ravenna’s most popular attraction. Marked as an area for silent reflection, the tomb sits next to an untidy grassy mound where the tomb was hidden during the second World War.

The bustling, neighbouring Piazza Garibaldi is far less serene with some excellent eateries from this food-rich region of Italy. With Parma (famous for its cheese and hams) and Bologna (famous for its tortellini) nearby, there is a mouthwatering range of food. Called a ragú, I settled for a cheap and hearty meat casserole in a rich herby tomato sauce served with crusty bread – superb.

If not yet overdosing on mosaics, Ravenna’s other finest mosaics are two blocks further east. With more a feeling of a traditional rectangular church with stylish columns, the Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, contains two long walls of mosaics. One side shows a procession of martyrs and the other shows a procession of virgins led by the Three Wise Men carrying their gifts (top photo). Again, the lighting gives the entire interior a golden green tinge.

It is worth a final quick glance into the Arian Bapistery that makes for an interesting contrast with the earlier baptistery. Similarly octagonal and with much the same mosaic themes, the main work of Christ’s baptism seems less striking and clear.

Though far less celebrated by Italian tourism, Ravenna makes for a superb one-day visit. Without the constant hum of Vespas and manic drivers, replaced by cycling and strolling locals, this UNESCO World Heritage-listed town has a far more authentic Italian feel to it. The quieter streets, atmospheric piazzas and superb food complement the mesmerising religious mosaics that adorn the 1,500 year old Byzantine churches and basilicas.

Other Italian Posts
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Touring the Mosaic City (Ravenna, Italy) - Part One

In two hundred years of rule between the fifth and seventh centuries, the Byzantines left their crowning glory with a dazzling array of Christian mosaics in the restful town of Ravenna on Italy’s east coast. Without the crowds that infest the travel wonders of Rome, Florence, Pisa, Siena, Venice and the Cinque Terre, Ravenna makes for a superb single travel day wandering between the World heritage-listed cathedral, churches and monuments to admire the extraordinary artistry created in tiles.



At first sight, Ravenna appears to be an historic town of buildings with dull exteriors. It is only when you wander inside these churches and museums that you discover interiors filled with a breathtaking kaleidoscope of glistening mosaics. Most of the sights are central and a single tickets offers entrance into several buildings making visiting hassle-free.

While much of Italy stands adorned with exceptional frescoes, the mosaics of Ravenna create a different feeling with their sparkle when they catch the natural light. Furthermore, unlike the magnificent frescoes, the tiles do not fade with age, ensuring they sparkle today with the same breathtaking majesty, as the populace would have enjoyed around 1500 years ago. The effort by the artisans to carefully cut and place tiny pieces of glass, marble and stones into such massive spiritual images must have been painstaking work.

The most remarkable of all is Basilica of St Vitalus (interior and exterior photos above). A dull octagonal building of darkish yellow stone from the outside gives way to a glowing apse and choir area with natural light streaming through the tiny windows highlighting the dazzling green, blue and gold mosaics of familiar biblical tales. The stunning central ceiling shows Christ at the centre of five figures including St Vitale (top photo) while to give an example of the biblical detail, the chancel photo shows Abel’s sacrifice of a lamb, Moses tending sheep and side images of Matthew and Mark with the lion (Luke and John are on the other side). The arch at the entrance to this area is adorned with Christ and the twelve apostles.

Next door to the basilica is the Tomb of Gallia Placidia. Being only a small space inside, avoid a tour group to fully appreciate this building. The translucent light from the alabaster windows lights a magical luminescent deep blue ceiling of golden stars and flowers. One striking image shows a saint next to a burning grill and a cupboard containing the four gospels.

The tour of Ravenna continues in a second post.

The Capitol in the Capital (Washington DC, USA)

With more American readers than any other, it seems appropriate on Independence Day to write about the iconic travel wonder of the US Capitol Building in Washington DC. The glorious white-washed classical building perches defiantly on Capitol Hill looking down a long verdant mall of national monuments, memorials and museums.

Built over 200 years ago, the building is grandly decorated with Greek columns and a huge cupola. Inside, the cavernous central room, the Rotunda, is bathed in natural light with numerous statues and artworks denoting major points in American history. A huge sculpture runs around the cupola and highlights America’s history starting with discovery by Christopher Columbus, through the Pilgrims, the signing of the constitution, the Civil War and the Wright Brother’s flight and accounts for recent events including the landing on the moon. With impressive planning, space is reserved for future significant events. The ceiling of the giant cupola is painted with an Italian-like mural showing George Washington ascending to heaven supported by various Roman and Greek gods.

Typical of most systems with its roots drawn from the British form of parliament, the Senate runs off on one side of the building while the House of Representatives runs off the other. Free tours run regularly showcasing the building’s highlights. If Congress is sitting, non-Americans can view the action by showing their passport. While the session I saw by mired in a dull and uninspiring debate about events in Nebraska, seeing the operations of the house made the effort worthwhile. A flag flies over the relevant wing if the house is sitting.

The original Supreme Court is included on the tour, though the current ultimate court in the USA is now housed in a separate building not far away. A glorious garden rich with orchids sits at the foot of the Capitol building.

Washington DC is a city rich in travel wonders befitting a capital city including the visually striking US Capitol.

Other Selected USA Posts
Unveiling Nature's Grand Masterpiece (Grand Canyon)
Fishing with the Bears (Alaska)
Bears, Crabs and Eagles on the African Queen (Alaska)
Rifling Through the Mystery House (California)
Gorge-ous Flume (New Hampshire)
The Fall Kaleidoscope (New England)
Old Man R.I.P. (New Hampshire)

Drinks Around the World: Chimay Beer

Last month, Lifecruiser initiated an international cocktail party run at the start of each month where writers highlight a notable drink from their travels or experiences.

For Travel Wonders last month was Pisco Sour from Peru and Chile, while this month's comes from the hallowed walls of a Belgian monastery.

Chimay beer, served in a specially designed and appropriate chalice glass (top photo is Chimay Red) is one of the world's few Trappist beers. Brewed by Trappist monks (who conduct their lives in near silence) within their abbey walls, with all money raised going back to the monastery or selected charities, their creamy beers are all strong on alcohol and very refreshing. My favourite of their three offerings is Chimay Blue, a dark, bitter beer (with a potent 9% alcohol). Unlike most beers, claims are that it improves with age in its bottle.

Also produced within the monastery as a perfect accompaniment is Chimay cheese, one variety of which is soaked in beer as part of its production.

So here is santé to all those international drinkers at our mid-year cocktail party.

Exploring the European Alps (Grossglockner, Austria)

The travel wonders of the Austrian Alps including Austria’s highest mountain is undoubtedly one of Europe’s finest drives. The Grossglockner High Alpine Road (Hochalpenstrasse) was one of the first roads purpose built for tourism, constructed as a government employment project during the harsh economic years between the two world wars. This 48 kilometre road with its 36 hairpin bends traverses lush farmland and the Hohe Tauern National Park featuring stunning alpine views of snow-capped mountains.



At the start of the drive, roadside farming works made from hay greet the drivers and cyclists. The road is a sightseer's paradisewith bays every few hundred metres where the vehicle can be stopped to enjoy the panoramic views while information boards highlight the mountain names, the history of the road and the flora and fauna of the region.

Notwithstanding the breathtaking scenery at every turn, four locations stand beyond all others. Firstly, the spur road to Edleweiss-Spitze, packed with cars on the tiny peak (and highpoint of the drive at 2,571 metres), overlooks the zig-zagging road up the alpine valley, white patches of snow pockmarking the verdant landscape. Over thirty 3,000 metres peaks are visible from this scenic amphitheatre. Consider the extraordinary engineering effort in the 1930s that shaped this panoramic thoroughfare.

At Hochtor, an excellent half-hour walk over a mountain crest reveals further alpine views and highlights an ancient trade route used by Celts and Romans several thousand years ago.

The second spur road leads to the four-storey visitor’s centre at Kaiser-Franz-Josef-Hohe. Dramatically sited below the towering Grossglockner peak (3,798 metres) and near the foot of the sweeping Pasterze Glacier, the centre contains exhibits, a small cinema, a cafe and a room to absorb the staggering vista. Inquisitive marmots scout around the rocks and grassy fields, busying themselves with their lives and encouraging visitors to provide some free food with their fun-filled antics.

As the road descends off the mountain tops into the valley below, the road weaves in the picturesque village of Heiligenblut. This cute village features a needle-spired church that contains a vial of Christ’s blood and a small cemetery with manicured lawns, colourful blooms and a superb mountain backdrop.

The high alpine tollroad of Grossglockner offers mountain scenery at its most dramatic, every turn highlighting snow-capped peaks and emerald green valleys. Designed for tourists, it is a comfortable drive (or challenging cycle) with lots of places to stop, walk and simply enjoy the fresh alpine air and stunning panoramas.

Other Central European Posts
Personal Space (Halstatt, Austria)
Waterfall Hidden in a Mountain (Switzerland)
Smallest Town in the World (Croatia)
The Aquamarine Necklace (Plitvice Lakes, Croatia)
Bountiful Bled (Slovenia)
Underground Fantasy (Skocjan Caves, Slovenia)

Map: Grossglockner High Alpine Road